Influence of reef flat submergence on infra-gravity wave energy and resonance over the fringing reef
Email:
lananhct@tlu.edu.vn
Từ khóa:
Infra-gravity waves, fringing reefs, natural resonance, standing waves, submerged depth, wave setup
Tóm tắt
Fringing reefs which are common nearshore islands with coral reef growth have special topography of very steep slope on the fore-reef and mild slope on the wide flat. When incident waves propagate from a very deep water region (from hundreds of meters to thousands of meters of depth) to approaching the reef they abruptly commence a very shallow water (only few centimeters to several meters of depth) and create strong hydrodynamic processes on the reef flat. Due to shallow depth, waves feel the bottom and break in the area of fore-reef slope and reef crest and partial reef flat. Infra-gravity waves (IG), other name as bound long waves or surf beat, which belong to low-frequency wave type (0.002Hz ¸ 0.04Hz) are generated by the varying-breaking point mechanism on the shallow reef flat. On the flat, short wave energy is almost dissipated; low-frequency waves are strongly dominated over the surf zone till swash zone. Wave set-up causing an increase of water level on the flat combines with the run-up at the shoreline which can lead to coastal flooding. Besides, if the reef flat length is in the order of one fourth of wavelength the first oscillation resonant mode with standing wave occurs. This component is resonantly amplified at the shoreline relative to the incident infra-gravity wave energy at the reef crest.Tài liệu tham khảo
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[7]. H. Chen et al., Evolution of irregular wave shape over a fringing reef flat, Ocean engineering, 192 (2019) 106544. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2019.106544
[8]. O. Nwogu et al., Infragravity wave motions and runup over shallow fringing reefs, Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, 136 (2010) 295-305. https://doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000050
[9]. M. Zijlema, Modelling wave transformation across a fringing reef using swash, Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 33 (2012) 1-12. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.currents.26
[10]. Y. Yao et al., Effects of reef morphology variation on wave processes over fringing reefs, Applied ocean research, 82 (2019) 52-62. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.apor.2018.10.021
[11]. G. Symonds et al., Two-dimensional surf beat: Long wave generation by a time-varying breakpoint, Journal of Geophysical Research, 87 (1982) 492-498. https://doi.org/10.1029/JC087iC01p00492
[12]. Pham Lan Anh, Validation of experiment data set over fringing reef by Swash 1D Proceedings of the annual conference of Thuyloi university, 2020.
[2]. M. Buckley et al., Wave setup over a fringing reef with large bottom roughness, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 46 (2016) 2317-2333. https://doi.org/10.1175/JPO-D-15-0148.1
[3]. M. Buckley et al., Mechanisms of wave-driven water level variability on Reef-fringed coastlines, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 123 (2018) 3811-3831. https://doi.org/10.1029/2018JC013933
[4]. R. T. Guza, E. B. Thornton, Swash oscillations on a natural beach, Journal of Geophysical Research, 87 (1982) 483-491. https://doi.org/10.1029/JC087iC01p00483
[5]. T. T. Janssen, J. A. Battjes, A. Van Dongeren, Long waves induced by short-wave groups over a sloping bottom, Journal of Geophysical Research, 108 (2003) 3252. https://doi.org/10.1029/2002JC001515
[6]. M. S. Longuet-Higgins, R. W. Stewart, Radiation stress and mass transport in gravity waves, with application to ‘surf beats. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 13 (1962) 481-504. https://doi.org/10.1017/S0022112062000877
[7]. H. Chen et al., Evolution of irregular wave shape over a fringing reef flat, Ocean engineering, 192 (2019) 106544. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2019.106544
[8]. O. Nwogu et al., Infragravity wave motions and runup over shallow fringing reefs, Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, 136 (2010) 295-305. https://doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000050
[9]. M. Zijlema, Modelling wave transformation across a fringing reef using swash, Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 33 (2012) 1-12. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.currents.26
[10]. Y. Yao et al., Effects of reef morphology variation on wave processes over fringing reefs, Applied ocean research, 82 (2019) 52-62. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.apor.2018.10.021
[11]. G. Symonds et al., Two-dimensional surf beat: Long wave generation by a time-varying breakpoint, Journal of Geophysical Research, 87 (1982) 492-498. https://doi.org/10.1029/JC087iC01p00492
[12]. Pham Lan Anh, Validation of experiment data set over fringing reef by Swash 1D Proceedings of the annual conference of Thuyloi university, 2020.
Tải xuống
Chưa có dữ liệu thống kê
Nhận bài
05/10/2020
Nhận bài sửa
30/10/2020
Chấp nhận đăng
06/11/2020
Xuất bản
25/01/2021
Chuyên mục
Công trình khoa học
Kiểu trích dẫn
Pham Lan, A. (7600). Influence of reef flat submergence on infra-gravity wave energy and resonance over the fringing reef. Tạp Chí Khoa Học Giao Thông Vận Tải, 72(1), 16-24. https://doi.org/10.47869/tcsj.72.1.3
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